Measure and mark one of the 8-foot pieces of 1-inch PVC pipe using a tape measure and marker. Mark seven, 7-inch pieces and two, 18-inch sections. Cut straight through the marks using a hacksaw.
Cut one, 24-inch section; two, 12-inch sections; and four, 9-inch pieces from the other 8-foot piece of 1-inch PVC pipe. Use a tape measure and marker to measure and mark the cut lines.
Assemble the top drying fork. Insert the two, 12-inch pieces into parallel ports on the four-way connector. Attach 90-degree elbow connectors to the ends of the 12-inch pieces and then connect three, 7-inch pieces to the crossbar assembly to make what looks like a three-pronged fork.
Create the spine of the drying rack. Put the 24-inch piece into the open port of the four-way connector. Insert a three-way connector onto the bottom of the 24-inch spine piece.
Make the hips of the rack. Insert two, 7-inch pieces into the open ports of the three-way connector at the bottom of the spine then insert two more three-way connectors onto the ends of the 7-inch pieces. Place the last two, 7-inch pieces of PVC into the freshly installed three-way connectors and point them up toward the top-end fork assembly.
Insert two, 18-inch pieces into the open spots on the three-way connectors to create the legs of the rack. Give the rack feet by pushing the vertical ports of the last two, three-way connectors onto the 18-inch PVC legs. Connect all four, 9-inch PVC pieces to the open parallel ports on the feet's three-way connectors.
Screw a potato chip bag clip into the middle of the assembly's three-way hip joints with a screw and a screwdriver. Place your used gear on the rack as if it were a mannequin's body -- helmet on the middle piece of the top fork, gloves on the outer pieces and chest gear on the spine of the assembly. The two, 7-inch pieces popping up from the hips are for your upside-down skates.